Scapa Flow ‘21

SCAPA FLOW 2021 - Stromness, Orkney 23rd to 30th October

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THE TEAM

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SCAPA’21 saw the return of most divers from a previously successful trip in 2019, so I was pleased that we had made it back with a wealth of experience and familiarity with the wrecks of the Flow. Scapa is without a doubt a majestic place, teeming with natural beauty that has you wanting to stick your head under the water from the first moment you arrive.

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HEADING FOR SCOTLAND

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Following the usual early departure from Yorkshire, the team progressively made its way up through Scotland, stopping several times to admire some of the spectacular sights whilst hitting the restrooms and grabbing numerous overpriced car snacks. Of course, no trip to the northern peninsula of Scotland is complete without a visit John O’Groats for an obligatory event photo. From there, we made our way onto Scrabster located at Thurso Bay, before catching the ferry over to Stromness where several of us, subject to rough seas, saw shades of green in some none of us knew a person could turn. Thats all except Hutchy, who according to him was too busy inspecting the toilet seat to even notice.

A Quick Photo Opportunity At John O’Groats

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OUR DIVE BOAT - THE MV KARIN

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Stromness is fortunate to have many dive charters operating out of its harbour, ranging vastly in both price and facilities. Any veteran Scapa diver will tell you that all you need is a bed, somewhere to get fills and a skipper who knows what he or she is doing. This is why year on year we have used John Thornton, owner and operator of the MV Karin. John and his team are undoubtedly the best value for money paired with unrivalled knowledge and experience. It is said that what John doesn’t know about the Flow, simply isn’t worth knowing.

The MV Karin - Owned & Skippered by John Thornton

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BECOMING A SCAPA VETERAN

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I have found that the more times you visit Scapa Flow, the more your approach to diving it changes. Back in 2019, all I wanted to do was hit the big ships, the Coln, the Karlsruhe, the Kronprinz and the Markgraf, all but to name a few, and I didn’t care what I saw or even how long I got on them. This visit I spent more time researching these magnificent wrecks, learning about their interesting features and best parts to visit. This undeniably paid off and I would recommend to anyone intending to dive the Flow that they do some serious homework to ensure they get the most out of their trip. You could literally dive the same wreck for days and still not see the same things.

A Pod Of About 8 Orca’s Spent Around 30 Minutes In The Area

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ORCAS (KILLER WHALES)

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The Scottish coastline in well-known for its sightings of numerous species of whales and dolphins, but one marine mammal in particular that has become somewhat elusive in recent years is the orca or as they are better known, the killer whale. Spotting the Killer Whales is without a doubt high on everyone’s list who ventures to Scapa and much like the crazy Scottish weather, their appearance cannot be booked anymore than their locations predicted.

Regrettably, during my much younger years, I first encountered these beautiful creatures close up whilst in captivity at a popular North American waterpark, so the opportunity to see their European cousins wild and free was something I was overwhelmingly desperate to witness.

Approximately mid-way through our time in Scapa, upon completing a decompression obligation and surfacing from my dive, a pod of approximately 8 orcas put in an unexpected yet memorable appearance. This instantly validated my earlier suspicions that the noises myself and other divers could hear whilst on their deco stop was indeed whales communicating with one-another. This was truely an experience I will personally never, ever forget.

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THE WRECKS

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The wrecks of the Flow, by majority, lay between 12 and 45m. This makes diving them achievable, at least in some respect, for most divers within recreational limits, although personally I wouldn’t recommend it.

To truly witness the spectacle of the German High Seas Fleet as they lay eerily on the seabed, just as they have for little over 100 years, potential divers really at the very least, should be certified at PADI Tec45 level or equivalent. The ability to plan and run unlimited and accelerated decompression is invaluable if you want to spend a decent amount of time exploring these wrecks without being cut short by extremely limiting NDL’s. Beyond that, certification to PADI Tec50 or above with the ability to accelerate decompression with multiple gasses is even better.

Over the course of the week, we hit the fleet in a respectable order: SMS Karlsruhe (26m), SMS Kolne (36m), F2 & YC21 (18m), SMS Kronprinz Wilhelm (36m), V83 (18m), SMS Markgraf (45m), Seydlitz Salvage Site (23m), Bayern Turrets (40m), SMS Dresden (38m), SMS Brummer (33m), James Barrie (45m) and the SMS Konig (37m).

The visibility was much better this time around and it is often said that the end of September onwards is considered the best time to visit subject to the clearing of the summer plankton bloom, but it really can vary from day to day.

Staring Down The Barrel

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A PHOTOGRAPHERS PARADISE

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Over the years, I’ve undoubtedly developed a passion for wreck diving, and I have been fortunate enough to do this in waters all around the globe. I initially undertook my PADI Wreck Specialty certification with PADI IDC Staff Instructor Ian Goldthorpe many years ago and was proud to be able to experience some of the best wreck diving the world has to offer with my old instructor back in Scapa 2019.

My other passion is photography. When I say passion, I really mean ‘amateur enthusiast’ which, by any sense, relates to a work in progress. Sporting a Nikon for the last 15 years, I have always had a basic understanding of photography and assumed this knowledge and experience would directly translate to the underwater world, how wrong could I have been.

I have found the art of obtaining a good dive photo is based on many things, adequate lighting, managing the water particulate (back-scatter), seizing the opportunity, having the correct gear and configuration and the essential skill and ability to undertake a little post-editing if required.

Scapa Flow is definitely not short of things to photograph. I can honestly say, I had as much fun photographing nudibranchs, crabs, lobsters, fish and seals as I did the defining features of the wrecks. The salient point here is that there is most certainly something for everyone. Whether you simply want to grab some cool photos of the big guns for your social media mates, or want an artistic like Guy Harvey centre piece for the kitchen wall, there is no shortage of opportunity here.

A Lion’s Mane Jellyfish

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DIVING WITH THE SEALS

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One thing you will always get from John Thornton whilst aboard the Karin, other than a wicked sense of humour, is the extra mile. John will always accommodate your requests where he is able. Whether thats heading to where the orca’s or humpbacks have been sighted, or visiting a remote colony of Scottish grey seals. Got a request? Head on up-to the wheel-house and just ask!

A Scottish Grey Seal

After unsuccessfully trying to get down on the wreck of the James Barrie at 45m, situated just outside of the Flow, John took the opportunity to show us a wild colony of Scottish grey seals. Most divers who were onboard are regular visitors to the Northumbrian Farne Islands, so seeing the seals was more of a novelty for them than an opportunity, but for me, it was something I had been wanting to do for many years.

I spent about an hour in the water with the seals by myself, curiously observing them on the shore and in the water. It was truly mesmerising that these gentle puppy like creatures permitted me to be amongst them whilst occasionally stoking the curiosity of the resident bull, who occasionally came close enough to remind me that it was his beach.

Jewel Anemone (Corynactis Viridis)

All in all, Scapa ‘21 was a trip that many will never forget. Everyone managed to get a solid amount of time on most if not all the main wrecks, and many laughs were had on the occasional scallop run. With the addition of the orca’s, the seals and a shot at the Barrie, Scapa really couldn’t have offered us anymore.

Edible Crab (Cancer Pagurus)